You Are Here 📍
And I love that for me. Still, on our 3rd spin around the substack dance floor, I'm feeling introspective.
What is the point of this newsletter? It’s clear (to me at least) what it isn’t. It isn’t to blindly encourage you to consume. It’s not to tell you what’s cool or not cool - who the hell is to say? Part of what it is meant to do is expose you to brands and people that I believe are doing good things. Not just creating product and putting it into the wild; but filling a need, or eliciting an emotional response that reminds us to enjoy ourselves - doing so in a thoughtful way that doesn’t sink this burning ship faster than you can say SHEIN. I want to be a resource for you. I have major imposter syndrome (I never believe I should be allowed to opine on or even participate in fashion) even though I have been in the industry since my student days at Parsons in 2008. There are a large number of you here (yay! thank you!) and, I’d like this to be a conversation. In a sea of product and content and influence - what brought you here?
Ok, let’s start here //
Magazines > Coffee Table Books
Coffee table books are like a lot of department stores. Homogenous, not a ton of personalty, often with a very narrow focus. Sure, browsing is fine but nothing really draws you in. Enter, magazines.
Print is not dead. I came up in the days of Love, Muse, Purple… incredible publications that highlighted fashion and its place in the zeitgeist with evocative and inspiring editorials. I kept them all and I still look to them when I need a creative boost. These are some of the best -
System // Directional, global fashion magazine that pairs conversational essays with photo editorials by renowned photogs. This feels like the New Yorker of fashion magazines to me, if that helps.
Hommegirls // Hommegirls is a magazine, a clothing brand, a lifestyle. It perfectly captures the moment, and I’m so fucking mad it wasn’t me that created this perfect universe - it was Thakoon Panichgul, of Thakoon. (Which is much less interesting and also in my opinion indicative of how badly the wholesale grind diminishes creativity. Once freed from said grind, he created an infinitely more exciting brand.)
Citizen // a bi-annual magazine “exploring the world through the lens of blackness and black creatives…” This is a beautiful magazine which makes the bi-annual aspect understandable. The print quality is incredible. The editorials feel beautiful and personal.
Purple // Fashion but with an art lean. Sexy, weird, fun to read.
AnOther // Like others on this list, AnOther has a fashion focus but also incorporates art, politics… you know, serious stuff. I’m of the opinion a fashion magazine shouldn’t exist without the context of those aforementioned arenas so this ticks the boxes.
YOLO Journal // Super bossy to call your sophisticated travel magazine Yolo. The Yolo in question is Yolanda Edwards, and she knows her shit. She has been in the travel mag world for years at Condé Nast and went out on her own not long ago. Her taste level is through the roof, the recommendations are spot on, and I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say she knows every person on the planet. The magazine is transportive and familiar and nostalgic and new all at once.
If you’re in New York you probably already know this but Casa Magazines is the best in the biz - you will not find a better selection. Toronto people, where do I go for Magazines? Help me I’m new!
It’s Sweater Weather
Here are some very different types of knits for your cold weather needs.
Babaa // Babaa is a family-owned knitwear company designed and produced in Barcelona. Everything they sell feels like an heirloom, but especially this style. I have it in the color pictured, Guava, because for me the shape and material is super traditional and I need some spice. Natural fibers + natural colors = too on the nose. They also have equally good men’s and children’s knits.
*The wool sweaters can feel a bit itchy to start - it’s to be expected. Do not dry clean these - wash them per the instructions on the tag. They will get softer each time. *
Khaite // This isn’t really a sweater, more of a fancy knit top. A winning style for the brand, they make it tons of colorways and slightly tweaked silhouettes every season because they’re reacting to huge demand. It’s tight and doesn’t stretch in the way you might expect and as a result, it’s almost like shapewear. The cut is beautiful and very flattering. Wear it tucked in or out (It’s not a bodysuit it just has a similar silhouette); I like it with a slouchy menswear-y trouser.
Leret Leret // Soft, drapey, fine cashmere sweaters. The fit is straightforward - relaxed, slouchy, easy unisex crewnecks with a healthy dose of quirk. This is my favourite right now.
J. Crew has good sweaters. This isn’t groundbreaking information. Historically J.Crew is not my vibe, but - if you shop it right - there’s gold in them hills. This is a great classic cashmere sweater.
A Very Important Estate Auction is Happening Now //
Joan Didion's estate auction is happening on Wednesday November 16th. The proceeds benefit patient care and research of Parkinson’s and the Sacramento City College scholarship for women in literature. Please don’t bid on the collection of aprons or the assorted eyeglasses unless you want to make an enemy of me for life.
Ok this is weird but do you remember that scene in Blue Crush where Anne Marie goes to the hot surfer party to bring Penny home? I’ve been looking for the remix of Rockstar that’s playing in the background for ~ 10 years and I found it yesterday. It seems faster than I remember but still solid.
Have you seen Vengeance? I thought it was a comedy but in retrospect I’m not really sure. It’s timely - The idea of our generation living in clips and recordings instead of the moment is astute and uncomfortable. Also the opening scene with John Mayer made me lol but didn’t ring entirely true. Are people in NY still partying at Soho House?
A Quick Spotlight //
Taylor Dory. I debated sharing this because it’s already so hard to secure the proverbial bag but I realized that a) the word is out b) It’s not for everyone and c) what’s the point of a newsletter if I don’t give up the goods?
First of all, her instagram profile picture is of Captain Ron. Really strong start. More importantly, she is hand making some of my favourite pieces in the world right now. They are at once interesting, a little weird, and different from anything else you own. She announces new releases on her instagram and they sell out in *minutes* so set your reminders and get weird with me.
Her clothing isn’t sized in a traditional way because she’s making one of a kind pieces with vintage fabrics. She does include basic measurements. On that note - Know your measurements! Ask you tailor to take your measurements (we’re tailoring our clothes now, remember?) the next time you go. Unless you know the exact whereabouts of your High Point Shoulder, your Cross Front vs. Chest etc etc, let a professional do it.
An Outfit For Your Consideration //
This bodysuit is a perfect silhouette. That’s it, that’s the tweet. Get it in the grey and the black, you won’t regret it. The long sleeve option would also be a hardworking closet addition.
We’ve talked about Raey denim before, and these are good because while they’re very baggy and loose, the waist is fitted. Which is the right way to do baggy pants as an average person. Something needs to fit or it all becomes sloppy. These are a heavier denim, so they work nicely with the slim fit of the bodysuit.
I also like this with a trouser - If you’re new to trousers-as-everyday-pants, these do the job and have the right amount of slouch and structure. Get the brown and wear it with the black bodysuit! Banish the generational trauma associated with rules around what colors can and cannot go together!
I am wearing this as we speak - and it’s really something. It falls into the shacket category. Brushed cotton (read: flannel), oversized but drapey enough to not overwhelm you. Wear it open over the bodysuit + whichever pant option feels right for you. Bonus points - it has pockets. This is also cool buttoned up over a tight stirrup onesie with outrageous stilettos for a very different scenario.
If the loafers give you too much height and lift your pant hem off the floor, don’t wear them. The pant has to pool on top of the shoe or I don’t want it! Within reason of course. If you need a flat, you could do a running shoe but not a sneaker. Sneakers are creepy.
Dream With Me!
How good are these Vintage Gio Ponti Stools and this Organic Side Table from Claude Home? That was a rhetorical question.
Holy shit this is incredible. And it’s like, a really important designer!
From My Saved Folder This Week //
BTS from the Seed of Chucky (2004) // From another one of those 90’s instagram accounts
Tell me what you want to see, what you don’t want to see, your cat’s name… whatever. Let’s make this more efficient. Also I was serious about an intern. Hit me up! I will NEVER ask you to get me coffee or pick up my dry cleaning. Unless it’s a piece from the archive that I’ve used in a shoot. That falls under normal intern responsibilities.
Loved this, K! Thanks for keeping me company on the ride to work this morning. Loved remembering how cool Purple is. Their NYFW party was always a highlight. See you next week! ❤️JS