This Little Piggy's Going to Market
Let's talk about it in the shadow of our collective failure to support new and emerging talent.
BUCKLE UP I'M FEELING OPINIONATED
*If you also subscribe to the absolutely fabrics email, you will be reading this twice. I apologize, in the future where I miracurously have more time, I’ll diversify.*
I’m heading to New York on Saturday for market and I have mixed emotions. I love going back to New York because I get to see my friends and also get my hair done. I deserve it - Market is not fashion week, it’s the less glamorous cousin where you walk all over the island of Manhattan and sometimes Brooklyn carrying your computer and 18 charging chords and your phone for which you have to find a random floor plug in the middle of your meeting but it never charges because you have to take pictures of each of the looks and that doesn’t work from floor level and then after all that you forget your phone on said floor 3 - 6 times a day. That was a wild run on sentence. I think that’s why I don’t expect people to pay for this newsletter.
My appointments are with some of our brands that we carry at Absolutely Fabrics, but most of them show in Paris now. A lot of designers have decided New York isn’t it. Add to the list - Carly Mark of Puppets and Puppets. This morning our rep for the brand gave us the news that PNP would no longer be making clothes (by way of this NYTIMES article) and I am not surprised, but I am angry. I’ll start by saying that PNP is not revolutionary. But it is distinctive and it has a personality. Which may sound like a baseline requirement to you but is an elusive unicorn in this current aesthetic-as-personality climate in which we find ourselves. The quality is great, and the clothes are just a little bit weird by the time they make it to the retail floor but — my god, give me something that’s a little bit weird or give me death. In addition, people love it and it sells. Yet the main issue is that PNP is not getting the retail support they need, or financial backers with the balls to back something unconventional. I know the entire fashion world is talking about “aesthetics” and how everything is boring but I’ll just add my two cents - yes, correct. Carly Mark is bored of New York and I understand but for what it’s worth - New York is not the problem. It’s the retail giants training us all to wait for the sales and then telling their vendors they can’t sell through the product at full price. In my opinion.
For a three month late recap of sorts, let’s talk about the CFDA awards; A good place to get a sense of why one might feel stifled in New York. Every year, the top prizes go to The Row and Khaite. Maybe that’s not wrong, but it’s not the least bit inspiring. The Row is a great brand — credit where credit is due. Khaite is… an impressive case study. The Row winning Accessories Designer of the Year does not feel like an inspired choice. We are not lighting creative fires under our newer, younger designers. Brandon Blackwood is right there! Go get a well-priced, well-made bag or thigh-high nylon boots and have yourself a chic little winter. Statements bags are not what they once were. Beyoncé ‘s Birkins are in storage, people! Same goes for American Womenswear going to Khaite, again. There is nothing wrong with Khaite (except that the price point is criminal), but are we still excited? It’s not secret that I love Christopher John Rogers but objectively, he is making impressive, emotional, exciting clothing that is unequivocally him. Why aren’t we rewarding that? I’m just genuinely, benevolently curious — who is driving this bus?
The message is go get yourself some Puppets while you can - I think some of the pieces will stand the test of time and become something collectible. You can get it from us this Spring season and (I hope) the next.
WHAT I'M WEARING —
During the day I’m wearing jeans (B Sides Easy Jean, Slvrlake Mica) A tee shirt (This PNP one or this B Sides one) and a blazer, either vintage, my hommegirls grey jacket (this one is similar), or this Aeron Navy suit jacket. Maybe I’ll go for french-magazine-editor-in-2010ish and wear the full suit with a tee and running shoes. If you can name the reference in the comments, we are of the same vintage. I’ll also bring my Haikure Tilda Jumpsuit because it’s easy and makes me feel very She/Her/Daddy. I’m bringing running shoesthis time because as I said, I’m schlepping. I don’t even know if I’ll need a coat because the climate crisis is upon us and it’s going to be 60 degress in the city. But I’ll bring my Pheobe Philo trench because a) trench coats are timeless + seasonless and b) my rationale for buying the coat sits on a very shaky cost-per-wear foundation.
We just got a delivery of Priscavera in the store and I can’t stress enough how much I love it - the white cotton shirt with lacing at the waist is very fun to wear. I’m going to pair it with my Ottolinger double fold pant to get more mileage out of the pants for the trip. I plan to wear the whole Ottolinger suit together to a show and dinner. I got the pants hemmed and I’m ready to go.
I’m bringing my Luar Ponyhair small Ana bag and my Puppets and Puppets Thing bag for nights.
Double Fold Suit Trousers
Thing 2 Bag - Mint
Fitted Belt Blazer
OTHER THINGS TO NOTE —
I’m making the time to get my hair done at Spoke and Weal - Colleen and Peter are my dream team, 10/10 recommend. I can’t decide if I should go short again or let it grow and get a long bang. I have been following The Hair Bros on instagram and it makes me feel like I could do a fringe. This feels like a me problem but if you had thoughts, leave them in the comments unless they’re mean in which case leave them in your head, troll.
I’m staying at Nine Orchard because I think they’ve worked out any new-hotel kinks and now are a beautiful, comfortable home away from home. Also close to my favourite thing to eat which is the soba noodle bowl add salmon from Dimes Deli.
I’m bringing drug store adjacent skincare with me because you know what? We’re being had, honey. My new philosophy is quarterly deep dive facials - (really just anything clinical and scary-sounding — Riverale Skin Co invited me to try Forma for the first time and I loved it. It really made a difference in my skin) plus my Ceravé and Paula’s Choice. I wash with the Ceravé Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser, Laneige Cream Skin Cerapeptide Toner and Moisturiser, Tata Harper Eye Cream (not drug store adjacent at all but I do not fuck around with eyecare), Paula’s Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer, and Dr. Loretta Urban Antioxidant Sunscreen.
I’m eating at Casino, Sip & Guzzle, and wherever else I’m told I’m going.
Ok that’s a wrap. Love you, we’re going to be ok.
xx
Kael