I Just Want to Talk!
This one is New York heavy because I was just there for Market week and I'm feeling a lot of feelings!
I wasn’t going to do a newsletter this week because I’ll be honest it’s a thankless chore. Kidding! I came home from New York with a stomach bug and my energy was non-existent. I was in New York for market (non-fashion people — market is the term for the week(ish) during or slightly after fashion week when designers wholesale their collections to retailers for the upcoming season). I guess this is the time to tell you I’m opening a store in Toronto in the Fall. Fun and scary! Anyway I don’t want to talk about it yet.
While in NY, I stayed at Nine Orchard for a change and it was very nice but I have notes. Primarily, function is essential. Pretty is nice, I love a BDDW toilet roll holder as much as the next person, but if there is nary a drawer to put your unmentionables in — I’m not thrilled. I had to throw all of my socks/t-shirts/underwear and bras freely onto a shelf below the hanging space in the closet like I imagine a frat boy would and it drove me insane. The tv’s are unreliable which, while I was not in New York for the TV watching, bothers me because I have kids and generalized anxiety so I like background noise.
I don’t have notes about the food in the restaurant (Corner Bar — an Ignacio Mattos restaurant) — it’s top notch. The public spaces are lovely and welcoming.
All this to say, the hotel is new and they’re allowed to work out the kinks. These are less complaints than observations and hopes for smooth sailing and a long prosperous run on Orchard Street. There’s good bones, so I would recommend it — just know there are no drawers.
Some General New York Takeaways —
If you’re eating at Corner Bar, get the side of spinach with whatever else you order. Just trust me, I know it sounds boring but it’s not of this world. Also the caesar salad is perfection. I ate the smoked salmon with baltic bread and crème fraîche every morning and it was simple and I loved it. Here is a picture of it in it’s glory:
If you’re getting a facial, get it at Christine Chin. It’s not relaxing. They won’t make you feel great about your routine, but they’ll clean your face like it’s never been cleaned before. I also love the products. Not wildly expensive, but wildly effective. I buy the Hydrating Facial Cleanser, The Cell Gold Toner, and the Cell Gold Face Brightening Serum everytime I go.
If you want to work out, try Rumble. I needed a class to do while I was there and I chose Rumble because I live to hit inanimate objects, and also Forward Space because I wanted to embarrass myself by dancing in public with strangers. Rumble wins for me. Better workout and you don’t need to be skilled to get the benefit.
A Steak Frites Divide —
I believe that your preference between Lucien and Raoul’s says a lot about who you are. I’m not saying one is better, I’m just saying — it’s a thing. Very polarizing crowds. Lately I have found myself at Raoul’s a lot and as a result am having an identity crisis. Here’s the bottom line — the food overall is better at Raoul’s. Sorry! I ordered the dover sole when I went last because I’m fancy and it was incredible. I feel like you have one order at Lucien and it’s steak frites. And maybe escargot. Am I wrong? I lived across from Lucien for almost a decade and it was the only place I felt comfortable ordering rare steak and red wine in my 9th month of pregnancy. So I will always tell you Lucien is better. It’s an energy thing for me. But that dover sole was really something.
It’s redundant to give a Dimes recommendation at this point but here I go anyway. We love Dimes, of course, but I was a little surprised to see the menu is the same as it’s been for approx. 12 years. It’s a good menu! Don’t get me wrong! But a little spice would be well-received. Anyway get the Soba noodle bowl with grilled salmon from dimes deli and sit at the counter. It’s cute and delicious. Here is a picture of it - let’s bring back mediocre food pictures!
Torrisi — which used to be tiny spot on Mulberry (I think?) with a tiny set menu — has opened in a massive, previously doomed space on Mott in the Puck building. It’s huge but inviting and the food was great. The Clam bowl is not to be missed if you’re a clam person. I did not take a picture of the clam bowl. I had already had 2 martinis by the time it came to the table.
Lastly - Tracy Bailey Jr is someone I’ve known for a long time through various circles in NY and he’s one of those people who moves/morphs with the zeitgeist in a way that very few people can. His latest venture is a vintage showroom at the brooklyn naval yards called arrngmnt. It’s currently appointment only and I’m bummed I didn’t make it but if you’re in NY go for me! I’ll And grab me that tangerine GAP cardigan while you’re there please and thank you.
Moving On! —
When I had my line, I was on the other (read:terrible) side of market, which is the side from which you beg retailers to pick up your line so that you can live to see another season and you make concessions with horrific consequences to your cash flow/bottom line but you HAVE TO because you have no power. So knowing all of this, I’m trying not to be an asshole and do all the same things that were done to me.
Real quick on sizing - I want to have a store that sells a wide side range. At this point, I don’t know how that’s possible. The amount of designers that I saw showing OR selling anything above a 14 (honestly it’s usually a 12) was 1. ONE. But here’s the thing — it’s not really their fault. So many of them are manufacturing in NY, or somewhere else where the quality is great and the price reflects that. The cost to add what amounts to a second line is too high. There has to be a better way to do this. It’s a massive investment for a designer to add sizes — one that the average consumer doesn’t understand so the result is anger, frustration and a whole lot of money on the table when it comes to extended sizes, that much is clear. But in the Wild West of fashion where major retailers can pay for goods 90 days after receiving them and cash flow doesn’t exist, how can we ask designers to double their overhead? Unfortunately this is a rhetorical question. But if you know the answer, by all means tell me.
And now I’m going to do what Vogue Runway does, which is describe what they’re looking at instead of reviewing it. #RIP style.com.
Here are some brands I saw that made me excited about this potentially overwhelming journey I’m embarking on —
Interior.NYC // Jack and Lily are real designers. I think actually that’s the common thread that excited me in all the brands I saw last week — They are designers first, brands second. Which is nice to experience in today’s world of anonymous blanding. I felt emotion and sentiment attached to the clothes. Clean, sharp, sexy and very New York. People are important!
Elena Velez // Her shows are aggressive and intense and interesting and intimidating. Up close however, the clothes are romantic and surprisingly wearable. Some of the fabrics are buttery soft, and the ones that look rigid and super structured had stretch and ease. It’s nice to see a designer know themselves so completely by the 3rd time out of the gate.
Willie Norris ReWorkshop // I fucking love Willie Norris! Read this article and you will too! This venture in which Willie takes your clothes and breathes new life into them is wonderful on so many levels. First — Earth. This is a good thing for her. Second, this is what we all need. Someone who is technically skilled who can make our clothes fit perfectly, look modern and exciting, and give us timeless bespoke pieces to build a closet around and gift to future generations. HEIRLOOMS!!! WE NEED MORE OF THEM!!
Nomia // If you’ve been here before, you know I love Nomia. Yara has been in business for over a decade and that is TOUGH in fashion without a major backer. Something is going well. The fabrics are always interesting, and this season the ever-present suiting has pinstripes and slashes and oversized cuts which feel great for the moment. Every season, the clothes feel at once very Nomia, and very relevant. Which is the magic.
What I Want to Wear Today —
Vintage Lacoste Sweater , Laura Lombardi Hoop Earrings, Acne Studios Printed Nylon Top, Comme Si Yves Sock , B Sides Vintage Lasso Jeans, Nude Prada Loafer, Boyy Wonton Bag
DREAM WITH ME! —
*the dream here is both the car and the ability to drive it*
Ferris Bueller’s 1985 Modena Spyder California
Just wanted to publicly say that I FUCKING LOVE this newsletter. I feel smarter and cooler just by reading it. And thank you for talking about the business/financial side of the sizing issue. It's such a problem, and my heart goes out to newer designers (and anyone who isn't just raking it in) who would love to offer more sizes, but can't figure out the upfront money piece of it. Also: I am about to book a work trip to NY and was thinking about Nine Orchard, so this really did it for me.
ok but who was the one designer???