But First, Chanel.

I have waited my whole (fashion) life to be a Chanel girl, and it's finally happening! Also other takeaways from Paris Market.

Before we get into it, I want you to know that I am self-aware, and I also know this to be a gross display of privelege and consumerism and all the bad things. The world is a dumpster fire, and I do not take for granted the fact that I can be frivolous, enjoy beautiful things and find escape in the material world. To be able to do my job in Paris in the Spring time and to take an hour away from that to experience that all-consuming beauty of a new dawn at Chanel is a gift and I do know it. So many people during market were asking if we were tired/over it/ready to leave and my answer every time is no. This is all a dream come true and if it’s not, you’re in the wrong biz, honey.

Ok. Let me tell you, the iconic Rue Cambon Chanel was A SCENE on March 5th, the year of our lord 2026. I knew it would be, I did my due diligence (paid off every credit card I own, took screenshots of exactly what I was looking for), and still, chaos ensued. Now I know that I’ve been in retail for a minute, comparatively speaking BUT if it was my store, I would have closed it for a day between turnover and acclimated the staff to the whereabouts of everything and prepared them for the madness they were about to endure. We had a wonderful, albeit slow and overwhelmed stylist helping us named Sebastien and once we gave him some positive reinforcement, we were cooking with gas.

I’m going to tell you what I got and I’d appreciate it if you reserve judgement. We’re friends, and I have been waiting my whole life to finally become a Chanel girl. I was never going to be her during the Karl era, but in Mr. Blazy’s house, I have found myself.

The first surprise is that I bought ready to wear. Specifically, 2 jackets and THE LAST Charvet shirt in the store that Oprah was waiting to try on if I didn’t end up buying it. Your loss ma’am, she’s mine. Also why does Oprah go to Chanel? Can’t Chanel go to Oprah?! Either way, I won.

I got the rolled sleeve cropped cotton tweed jacket and I wish I’d gotten the pants but I panicked. I got the ivory and black tweed jacket with the voluminous sleeve and red buttons and this was the one that made me giddy. There was one left, (in a size 38, which I am not) and it fit. I screamed to myself in the fitting room. My fingers were tingling and I felt like I’d won something (reader, “winning” is not the right word here), and I held it close to my chest until Sebastien gently told me no one was going to take it from me and I could let him wrap it up.

For accessories, I am very much not a Chanel flap girl. Never will be. Also IMO if you are spending a ludicrous amount of money on a bag it should be either something you use almost every day (maxi flap!), or something truly unique and special - a cult find- that will hold it’s value. So, cost-per-wear (basically free for the maxi flap bag - girl math!) helps alleviate some of the anxirty. The shoes are on par cost-wise with all other designer footwear right now so it doesn’t feel as wild to indulge there.

All in all, a very fun time to be in Paris.

Here is our schedule of what we saw. I have also included my personal orders so you can understand the depth to which I love our designers (it’s a lot!).

3/5

ML10 - Highlight here was Hesperios Knitwear.

CJR - The denim is expanding, the ease is easing, the colour is exploding. A gorgeous, oversized jaquard overcoat was a thrilling new development.

Personals - Alpaca Oversized Turtleneck Sweater, Silk Lightweight Turtleneck, Ocelotadot Buccaneer Blouse, Ocelotadot Soft Balloon Pant.

ASHLYN - I bought the prince jacket online before we started working with Ashlyn, and I wear it at least once a week. It is the best investment you will make and it is being offered this season in a neon yellow tweed as well as a cashmere solid.

Personals - Prince Jacket in double cashmere, Prince jacket in yellow tweed, Devon blouse, Grayson pant.

Dinner at Bouche w/ team CJR

3/6

DIOTIMA - The collection feels like a big step forward. The collaboration with the estate of artist Wifredo Lam is extremely special and the resulting prints are wearable art. A perfect colour palette.

Personals - Blue silk button down, Black Coat with fringe.

SIMONE ROCHA - There are few surprises with SR, you know exactly what you’re getting. A ribbon runs through it. That said, the men’s collection was exciting. The Pony Boy shirts in collaboration with Perry Ogden are a nice entry into the weird world of Simone Rocha’s man.

B SIDES
MARIE ADAM LEENAERDT - MAL can be intimidating at first. It has a heavy Balenciaga/Vetements vibe (I believe she worked with Demna at Vetements) but comes across softer and friendlier. The coats are always a standout here. Please note our incredibly chic rep, Jean, in the below collage.

Personals - Slipper with bow in snake, Peignoir tailoring jacket.

FIDAN NOVRUZOVA
SLOAN - This was my first time seeing Sloan. She showed in a stunning apartment that her friend had recently redone and I was almost too distracted by my desire to live there to engage with the clothes. Which would have been a shame because the clothes are beautiful. All made in Mexico by women artisans, but in such modern silhouettes as not to feel crafty.

Drinks at Hotel Balzac - I met my friend Gabby for a drink here before we went tour respective dinners. Beautiful space, great martini.

Dinner at La Petite Chaise - This is the oldest restaurant in Paris, and it’s extremely charming. We sat downstairs but apparently the upstairs is better.

3/7

GRACE LING

PRISCAVERA

NOMIA

6397 - This is new for us. It’s not groundbreaking but I would buy every single thing I put on the rack for the store at full price. And that’s saying something. The styling is great and really helps inspire you to elevate your daily wardrobe.

Personals - Marker scarf in amaro, pillox hat in charcoal, Borden sweater in boysenberry.

CONNER IVES - He just keeps getting better!! And more expensive, lol. The thing is, the demi couture and the tailoring is where he SHINES and those categories are expensive to develop and expensive to make. So, here we are. That said, these are pass-it-down-to-your-kids pieces. So damn special. Everyone in the tiny showroom was smiling and ecstatic and that’s worth a lot. He does still have the entry price point pieces here - hats, beautiful bags, sweatshirts and gorgeous pleated scarves.

Personals - baseball cap, silk scarf, demi couture piano shawl opera coat.

A QUICK ASIDE ON PLEATING - people get very heated about a pleated piece being polyester and not silk and I want to say two things about that. First, some polyesters are gorgeous. I have seen some incredible recycled Japanese polys that I would want to wear over silk any day. Second, natural fibres don’t hold a pleat. SO - if you want the pleat to last, the fabric has to have some synthetic in it. At major fashion houses of the past (Madame Grès perhaps), the customer would bring the garment back to be re-pleated when the pleats started to release. Which is chic, yes, but not realistic in today’s world. So please don’t complain about the poly.

BURC AKYOL - This was my first time seeing Burc Akyol which is surprising because it is so outrageously my type. Burc is a charming, talented designer with stints at JPG and Balenciaga, (under Ghesquière, no less) LVMH prize finals pedigree, and an Andam prize under his belt. His oversized silhuettes envelop the body but still remain incredibly sexy.

Personals - Satin robe coat, Caryatid coat in camel.

NICKLAS SKOVGAARD - Is Nicklas the nicest man in fashion? Yes. He leans a bit literal sometimes with the 80’s jersey silhouettes but his leather is getting better every season and the collection is growing slow and steady, as it should be.

Dinner at Au Passage

3/8

MARRAKSHI LIFE - The new thing here is Mohair for fall. It’s very succesful in a pinstripe blazer and coat. It’s a challenging weight for pants and tops. The best pieces however are the cotton sets; bread and butter for ML. Gorgeous quality.

SWEDISH STOCKINGS - Could have been a zoom but we love SS!

16ARLINGTON - We stumbled into this showroom while leaving another. I have never really given much though to this brand, I think that keyhole dress threw me off. But I was pleasantly surprised by the quality and the range. It didn’t feel overt - it felt sophisticated. The founder, Marco, was there which always helps because he’s charming and gorgeous and forced us to drink water even after we declined. Nice. I’m excited about this addition.

Personals - Jori top in taupe, Riva trousers, Mitzi bandana.

NEOUS

ZANKOV - I love the different yarns Henry is getting into at Zankov. He has branched way out from Mohair which I appreciate because Mohair drives me nuts. There are also more silks, knit and woven combinations, and more embroidery. It’s joyful and fun and I want to layer all the body con knits under big chunky knits and add huge earrings (nothing ornate) all fall.

Personals - Four x two ribbed turtleneck, Cashmere distorted stripe cardigan in chrome yellow.

FFORME - I love the suiting at Fforme. The tailoring is impeccable and the fabric is top tier. We don’t buy into them heavily because they are expensive (understandably so), and I want people to develop brand loyalty first. The outerwear is best in class. We are doing three coats, which feels fine to me. One is a cropped black shearling that is not to be missed. Fluid, hammered silks are a brand hallmark and continue to perform.

ALAIN PAUL - We are getting our first delivery anyday now, and I am excited to see how people react. The prices are sharp, and the clothing is wearable but has a definite editorial edge. The brand has always been genderless, and it doesn’t feel like a forced title.

AUGUST BARRON - There is always an elaborate story behind the clothes - this time it was a prom daydream. All that aside, each piece stands on it’s own two feet. The layered knits and sweatshirts are the winners.

3/9

MERUERT TOLEGEN - Another first visit. Beautiful, potentially tough at retail. But, as is my way, I may fuck around and find out. Stay tuned. The woven corset and pant look was a favourite.

AKKI - The first season for the brand, and a very nice showing. Excellent fabrications and details. Very small, tightly edited and special.

HIGH SPORT- I love High Sport. I hope the discourse on the kick pant is over for good because the proprietary knit fabrication is worth the spend. These are wardrobe workhorses. Let them do the lifting for you. This time with belt loops! We are also getting category expansion here so that you can truly build a whole look and it’s good.

Personals - Mini check theo pant, Jasper shirt in sage and red.

VAQUERA - Bra tops abound.

TORISHEJU - I can’t wait for you to experience this brand in person. A true designer’s designer.

MARIA MCMANUS

KANIKA AGARWAL - First showing from Kanika, and a strong one. She splits her time between Paris and Delhi, and that mix results in a very cool collection.

Before I go, here are the other places that I try to make time to stop in everytime I’m in Paris:

The Broken Arm (perfect edit of the best things), Preclothed (A new one! Insanely well curated vintage and the most chic proprieter, Boris), Rubirosa’s (Charvet for beginners - bonus, I’ve known the owner Lauren for a while and she’s the warmest, loveliest human), Brut (they opened in New York and for some reason that doesn’t make me happy?), Galleries Lafayette and Le Bon Marché.

That’s it, thank you for being here.

x

Kael